A revisited classic

And it’s in Alta Badia where we spent two days on our bicycles — two loops, both 100 kilometres in length with over 3,000 metres of elevation gain. On the first day we rode around the Puez Odle nature park, before descending through the Funes valley to the Isarco river. Then we climbed along the Gardena valley towards Gardena Pass and descended again to Colfosco and Corvara. The second day, we tackled in sequence some of the most historic Dolomite passes; Campolongo, Pordoi, Fedaia, Falzarego and Valparola, all whilst drinking in the awe-inspiring views and sumptuous landscapes.

Let’s begin. We depart from the village of La Villa where the geological fork takes shape — to the east is the climb that leads to San Cassiano and then the Valparola, and to the south is the road leading to Corvara, below the Piz Boè. But we turn our bikes north and descend for roughly 15 kilometres to San Martino. With its castle and Ladin Museum, this Alpine village looks like a postcard from the past, with tattered edges and a faded stamp on the back. However, you can decide the starting point that suits best — the extensive valley of Alta Badia offers infinite choice.
On the way down to San Martino, you need to ride carefully. There is a tunnel which can be passed through fairly easily, thanks to the speed of the descent. At the junction for the Passo delle Erbe, Ju de Börz in Ladin, the route becomes tougher. After the bridge, you leave the road and follow the signpost for Mirì along a small lane that meanders through woods and fields, ten kilometres of Italian tranquillity that soothe the soul.

The Sasso della Croce is a marvellous mountain — once upon a time, it was the Messner brothers’ training ground. After a couple of kilometres, a sign indicates Val dl’Ert (or the Valley of Art). This is a secluded corner of the region which hosts the SMACH art installations, a serene, biennial land art project. A visit is more than recommended, not just for contemporary art enthusiasts.
Old farms, grazing cows, the typical wooden crucifixes. The higher you get, the more beautiful and rugged it becomes. It is hard to ask for more. When you reach the Passo delle Erbe, the view of Putia reveals itself as an imposing, austere and isolated sphinx.
From here, the road descends for a couple of kilometres before pitching towards the sky yet again; with consistent gradients between 9 and 10% and peaks of up to 16% all the way to the summit at 1,991 metres. Here, Putia’s majesty is even clearer. Caution is advised for the descent, as you need to ride carefully along the narrowing road. Take one last glance at the mountains that stretch to infinity before the handlebars are thrown into the larch and pine forests below.
At the fork, we leave provincial road 29 to take the 163 in the direction of Val di Funes. Amidst the dense, cool woodland, you can see the elegant Odle peaks emerging from the trees.

Now it’s time to get back in the saddle, and turn right as you reach the provincial road signposted for Chiusa and then Gudon.
If the conditions permit — there was a landslide at the time of our passage — turn left to tackle one of the most difficult uphill sections of the entire tour. Otherwise, ride to Chiusa and then head towards Gudon and Laion. Expect to push hard on the pedals for 13 kilometres, five of which are very steep with gradients that range from 7% to 18%. The tiny road climbs up quickly between sharp hairpins, twisting through the meadows. As the road ascends, keep to the right to reach Laion, the gateway to Val Gardena. The fountain in front of the butcher’s shop is a just reward for your efforts.

The last part of this magnificent road becomes increasingly demanding and ever more scenic: in front of you is the Sciliar, and in the distance you can already glimpse the unmistakable silhouette of the Sasso Lungo. You pass San Pietro, and eventually reach the road leading to Pontives and Ortisei. If you feel like it, turn into the centre at the roundabout and visit the village — but bear in mind from there you still have 1,100 metres to climb.
To avoid the tunnels, at the Santa Cristina roundabout take the third exit and head towards the parish church. 50 metres before the church, turn right onto the cycle path to Plan. This route is very popular amongst locals and, if cars and motorbikes allow it, cycling over the Gardena Pass is magnificent.
The Gardena Pass has witnessed numerous and legendary Giro d’Italia battles over the years.

Note for cyclists who also love rock climbing: while riding up the Gardena Pass, on the left side you can admire the Pizes de Cir. Reaching the summit and enjoying the sunset is worth the sacrifice of the climb. To the right, the Passo Sella resembles a siren’s song, but it is best not to be tempted, as enough climbing has been completed for now.
Looking up from behind the handlebars, the Sella group is impressive as it is formidable, and once at the top the view of the Alta Badia valley is stunning. Here the Tofane is in sight, with the peak of Rozes in full view amongst Conturines, Lavarella and Sasso della Croce. On the left, not far away, the unmistakable silhouette of Sassongher — the rock pyramid towering above Corvara.
The descent begins. To the right the Torri del Pisciadù, and about halfway down the suspension bridge of the Tridentina ferrata. Just after the wooden monument dedicated to the Maratona dles Dolomites, turn left and ride downhill to La Villa.

The sport of cycling without the Dolomite passes is like a room without books, like a body without a soul. These epic roads are an endless sequence of fatigue and joy. You rise to the clouds along the litany of hairpins, descend with your hands clenched to the handlebars, surrounded by the mountains: it’s the pure essence of the passion for this sport.
We start our ride again from La Villa (but you can choose any starting point in the Alta Badia valley). The plan is to climb a relentless sequence of local passes, one at a time — as if working a set of rosary beads through our hands. Campolongo, Pordoi, Fedaia, Falzarego and Valparola: incredible climbs that every rider should tackle once in their lifetime to feel the history of Italian cycling at its fullest.

The Campolongo pass is considered the little brother of this family, but the switchbacks that twist and turn above Corvara are of rare elegance. The Sassongher rises majestically from behind to remind us that beauty is a precious gift — one to contemplate and to protect. This is where the iconic photos of the Maratona dles Dolomites have been taken for more than 30 years, with the unmistakable multicoloured peloton of cyclists riding together. The descent towards Arabba is a hymn to the forests, which the Vaia storm of a few years ago seriously threatened. We will always remember how locals worked industriously alongside each other after the carnage, yet we need to be aware that we owe Mother Nature more. Much more.

The iconic monument dedicated to Fausto Coppi at the summit is worth a moment of reflection, at least to catch your breath after such a tough ascent. A second, lesser-known plaque dedicated to the ‘heron’ — the nickname of Coppi — can be seen on the descent as you reach the fork with the Sella.
Onward to Canazei and the Fedaia pass. This is perhaps the least famous side of the climb, but one of extreme beauty. Of course, it is not as brutal as on the other side, with those straight stretches that Tonkov still remembers, after the Asiago-Selva di Val Gardena of the 1998 Giro. With Pantani sprinting once, twice, and how many times more? “Either he collapses or I do” — Il Pirata must have pondered. And luckily for us, as fans, Tonkov did.
There is the lake, and there is the Marmolada. Silence all around. The title of a famous essay by Jonathan Franzen comes to mind: what if we stopped pretending? Yeah. The descent is long, and the fresh Dolomite air fills the lungs like a healing nectar. We pass by the Serrai di Sottoguda, almost restored after the damage of storm Vaia. The village of Caprile hosts a peaceful centre, which is worth a coffee stop — as well as a strudel or tart.

Leaving Caprile, we start climbing again to Cernadoi. The road divides here into a choice, for Maratona dles Dolomites participants to solve their Hamletic doubt: shall I go for the medium or the long course? Falzarego or Giau?
The Falzarego climb is one of the most beautiful ever — an incomparable giant. The gradient is steady, though not as tough as the Giau, with the scent of pine in the air. To the left is a fortress, the Andraz Castle, a historical testament to a past that cannot be forgotten. It is an expression of the local heritage linked to the Ladin area of the upper Agordino region. Above, the Col di Lana, the absurd theatre of an absurd war. More than 100 years later, it is still possible to hear the whispers of thousands of young men torn from their lands, sent here to never return.

The meadows above the forest, and over there the rocky spires: Mother Nature always offers the perfect tonic. As does the fountain at Pian Falzarego, the finest according to many cyclists. After the tunnel carved into the rock, here is the pass, but it is not over yet. Valparola requires one last effort of the toughest kind — from stone to stone, locals say. What you admire on reaching the top is grandiose. If you wish, you can take a short dirt track on the old road. The Fortress continues to remind us that the war front was here, but it is enough to look up and pass one of those hedges so dear to Leopardi: infinity exists and goes beyond the Marmolada, the Boè, the Sassongher, the Putia, the Conturines. Infinity is within.
The descent is spectacular, it fills the heart. The Conturines massif looming in front of us is breathtaking. The Armentarola meadows remind us that to our right is the entrance to the Fanes, Sennes and Braies Nature Park. Next time, we promise, we’ll leave the bike and walk — for sure.

Passing through the centre of San Cassiano is a must, and finally the end — La Villa. Now the loop is over and it’s time to relax. Just like Horace’s verses encourage us to do: “Be wise: pour the wine / and close in this short circle / your long hope. / Even the words that we now say / time in its robbery / has already taken away / and nothing returns. / Enjoy this day, / do not believe in the day to come”. Carpe diem. And thank you, cycling.